Balenciaga’s 2023 Spring/Summer Line: Dull as Mud?

Balenciaga by Demna is accustomed to incorporating the outdoors within its runways. In a 360-degree venue, their autumn 2022 show featured models trudging through snow and gusts of wind. Building on this imagery, their spring/summer 2023 clothing line launch had models strutting through dirt and puddles wearing all-black clothing. The point? To address the stereotypes and malevolence people hold toward others, especially in times of war.

In a post-apocalyptic security uniform, Kanye West (hugely controversial himself) introduced the collection with a stompy stride, and was followed by a swathe of models wearing a number of outfits, from formal clothing to grungy work wear to club gear. They carried dingy gowns, skimpy mesh tops, baggy jeans and “trash bags”— all in black, all of which were stained by the mud as they walked hastily down the runway.

Despite the ambition in the show’s theme, the new line of garments equated to really rather dull, boring clothing. The spectacle of the show? Well — it was just a new version of something they’d already done, but this time, the models (and their attire) sunk deeply into the background, almost unnoticed. Some clothing appeared to be made of rags, and most of the collection was doused in mud, either off the runway or as a result of surface embellishment. Belts and the elastic bands of underwear stood out of proportion to the pants they were fashioned under.

“I hate boxes and I hate labels and I hate being labeled and placed in a box,” Demna once expressed regarding society’s restrictions on individuality. Many other high fashion brands have followed in his stead, shouting about similar topics. The symbolism of Demna’s vision directed our gaze away from the clothes and instead over to society. Ironically, and rather unfortunately, Ye, the artist formerly known as Kanye West, recently being dropped by Adidas for antisemitic sentiments, to some, might have undermined the show’s ambitious message.

Demna’s use of an analogy between the fashion show’s setting and the mass grave recently discovered by the Ukrainian military in Izium, really hit like a bolt from the blue. The mud grave appeared to be so similar to the grave dug by Russian troops, forcing people to be confronted by the dangers of military conflict. Here, we seemed to sit in a dystopian scene of a post-conflict nation, but did this immersive experience enhance our support of the clothing, or indeed, influence our appreciation for the innovation of the textiles?

Balenciaga’s 2023 fashion show was impressive in its thematic intent, powerful in its political audacity and inspiring as a way of integrating social activism in art. But as far as Demna’s new fashion line is concerned … the clothes are just … meh.